What is an ice dam?

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow (water) from draining off the roof. The water that backs up behind the dam can leak into a home and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation, and other areas. Figure 1 shows a cross section of a home with an ice dam.

What causes ice dams?
There is a complex interaction among the amount of heat loss from a house, snow cover, and outside temperatures that leads to ice dam formation. For ice dams to form there must be snow on the roof, and, at the same time, higher portions of the roofs outside surface must be above 32° F while lower surfaces are below 32°F. For a portion of the roof to be below 32°F, outside temperatures must also be below 32°F. When we say temperatures above or below 32°F, we are talking about average temperature over sustained periods of time.

The snow on a roof surface that is above 32°F will melt. As water flows down the roof it reaches the portion of the roof that is below 32°F and freezes into an ice dam.

The dam grows as it is fed by the melting snow above it, but it will limit itself to the portions of the roof that are on the average below 32°F. So the water above backs up behind the ice dam and remains a liquid. This water finds cracks and openings in the exterior roof covering and flows into the attic space. From the attic it could flow into exterior walls or through the ceiling insulation and stain the ceiling finish.

Non-uniform roof surface temperatures lead to ice dams.

What causes different roof surface temperatures?
Since most ice dams form at the edge of the roof, there is obviously a heat source warming the roof elsewhere. This heat is primarily coming from the house. In rare instances solar heat gain may cause these temperature differences.

Heat from the house travels to the roof surface in three ways: conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is heat energy traveling through a solid. A good example of this is the heating of a cast iron frying pan. The heat moves from the bottom of the pan to the handle by conduction.

If you put your hand above the frying pan, heat will reach it by the other two methods. The air right above the frying pan is heated and rises. The rising air carries heat/energy to your hand. This is heat transfer by convection. In addition, heat is transferred from the hot pan to your hand by electromagnetic waves and this is called radiation. Another example of radiation is to stand outside on a bright sunny day and feel the heat from the sun. This heat is transferred from the sun to you by radiation.

In a house, heat moves through the ceiling and insulation by conduction through the slanted portion of the ceiling (Figure 1). In many homes, there is little space in regions like this for insulation, so it is important to use insulations with high R-value per inch to reduce heat loss by conduction.

The top surface of the insulation is warmer than the other surroundings in the attic. Therefore, the air just above the insulation is heated and rises, carrying heat by convection to the roof. The higher temperatures in the insulation’s top surface compared to the roof sheathing transfers heat outward by radiation. These two modes of heat transfer can be reduced by adding insulation. This will make the top surface temperature of the insulation closer to surrounding attic temperatures directly affecting convection and radiation from this surface.

There is another type of convection that transfers heat to the attic space and warms the roof. In Figure 1, the winding arrow beginning inside the house and going through the penetration in the ceiling, from the light to the attic space, illustrates heat loss by air leakage. In many homes this is the major mode of heat transfer that leads to the formation of ice dams.

Exhaust systems like those in the kitchen or bathroom that terminate just above the roof may also contribute to snow melting. These exhaust systems may have to be moved or extended in areas of high snow fall.

Other sources of heat in the attic space include chimneys. Frequent use of wood stoves and fireplaces allow heat to be transferred from the chimney into the attic space. Inadequately insulated or leaky duct work in the attic space will also be a source of heat. The same can be said about knee wall spaces.

Dealing with ice dams

Immediate action:

• Remove snow from the roof. This eliminates one of the ingredients necessary for the formation of an ice dam. A “roof rake” and push broom can be used to remove snow…
• In an emergency situation where water is flowing into the house structure, making channels through the ice dam allows the water behind the dam to drain off the roof. Hosing with tap water on a warm day will do this job. Work upward from the lower edge of the dam. The channel will become ineffective within days and is only a temporary solution to ice dam damage.

Long-term action:

• Increase the ceiling/roof insulation to cut down on heat loss by conduction. Adhere to State code required R-values above the ceiling for new homes. In narrow spaces, use insulation products with high R-value (6-7) per inch.
• Make the ceiling air tight so no warm air can flow from the house into the attic space.

Both of these actions will increase the snow load that your roof has to carry because it will no longer melt. Can your roof carry the additional load? If it is built to current codes, there should not be a structural problem.

• Natural roof ventilation can help maintain uniform roof temperatures, but if the long-term actions described here are done effectively, then only small amounts of roof ventilation are needed to maintain uniform roof surface temperatures. If heat transfer has been reduced substantially, then snow will build up on the roof and cover natural roof ventilation systems, reducing attic ventilation rates. Natural attic ventilation systems are needed to dry the attic space and remove heat buildup during the summer.

KEEPING YOUR BASEMENT DRY

For many, the heavy March rains this year served as an unpleasant reminder of one of the many challenges of owning a home in New England.  Dealing with wet basements is no fun, and can be costly if you have finished space and it is an ongoing problem.  

Understand the problem- Where basement water comes from.

Each home and basement is different. Your foundation may be fieldstone, poured concrete, or concrete block walls.  The most common water entry points are through the foundation walls, seepage at the wall to footing joint,  or elevated groundwater that comes up through the slab.   Basement leaks can result in water damage to personal property, basement finishes, damage to hot water heaters and boilers, and ongoing environmental issues such as mold.  Several sources of water typically get into basements:

1. Surface water is runoff water, usually the result of a heavy storm in combination with blocked gutters or downspouts.  If you have mainly a surface water problem, it will typically show up as stains starting at the top of a cellar wall.
2. Groundwater comes from below the slab and behind the foundation walls as the water table builds up on top of the subsurface rock, shale, or other impermeable layer under your house. That explains why a higher elevation doesn’t always guarantee a dry cellar in a wet year.  Groundwater built up behind the foundation wall creates hydrostatic pressure.
3. Sewage back-ups.  During storm events, sewer systems can be overloaded by infiltration of rain and groundwater into the sewer system.  If the system becomes surcharged, and your at a low point in the system, the pressure can actually force the sewer up through a basement toilet or basement laundry drain.   These types of problems are less frequent and not covered herein.
4. Storm water system back-ups.  In some towns (such as Brookline), basement sump pits and downspouts are connected to the storm water drainage system.  If  the system ever becomes overloaded, it can surcharge the system and if you are at a low-point, can back water up into the sump pit rather than drain it away.

What to do?

Eliminate as much surface water as possible.  This job is a matter of seeing where water collects and then doing something about it. The best time to locate trouble spots is during a rainstorm.

• The best defense against surface water is having a properly graded lot.  The best scenario is that the house is situated such that the grade falls away from the house for at least 10 feet in all directions.  Ideally, any surface water collecting on your lot can drain naturally away, and not form ponding that further adds to groundwater.  This is an ideal which is rarely fully achieved.
• Keep gutters and downspouts well-maintained and clear of leaves and other debris. Overflowing gutters will dump hundreds of gallons of water around the house foundation instead of carrying it away. Eventually that water will find its way into the cellar. 
• Make sure downspouts are draining water well away from the house.  If your home doesn’t have subsurface drains, install concrete or plastic splash blocks where downspouts discharge, and pitch them to direct runoff at least 6 feet away from the house foundation.
• If your downspouts discharge into subsurface drain tile or pipes make sure they are not clogged by debris.  

• Protect basement window wells. If landscaping near the house is pitched toward the foundation, for example, water will flow into the wells. In even a moderate storm, water will build up rapidly and will seep through window joints or the wall into the cellar. To cure this, grade the landscaping away from the house and build up the height of the window-well perimeter with corrugated sheet metal. If that doesn’t work, you may have to install underground drainage pipes.
• Understand the full picture of surrounding grading.  Is there additional water being added to your lot from neighboring lots, overflow from streets, your neighbors sump pump etc.  Investigate if that water may be drained away from your foundation with natural grade.

Preparing for groundwater problems.

Sump Pits and French drains  The most common approach to handling groundwater problems is to use a sump pump in a basement floor to lower the water table. In newer houses, the basement slab is generally poured on 6” to 8” of crushed gravel.  This makes for excellent natural drainage under the basement floor.  By adding a sump pit, it allows excess water building up in the gravel a place to go.

• In older homes with poorly constructed basement slabs, a perimeter French drain system is commonly used in conjuction with a sump pump. To construct a French drain, you have to break through the cellar floor and dig a trench around its perimeter about 12 inches wide and up to 12 inches deep. The trench must be deep enough to convey the water to the sump pit before becoming a problem.
• Often, the French drain system includes a verticle plastic component set ¾” off the wall to catch any leaks running down the side of basement walls.

• The pumps used are typically submersible,  and are triggered by a float switch that turns on the electric pump. When the level of the water in the sump drops, the pump switches off.

• A sump pump is installed in a plastic- or concrete-lined pit dug about 36 inches deep in the basement floor, where water first collects. It pumps the water that accumulates in the pit to the exterior of the house.   Note that it is important that the location of the pump discharge, and where this water can drain to is a critical decision point in the design of a system.

Additional Ideas for Pumps:

• Have a battery back up for sump pumps, or an emergency electrical generator in case the power goes down.  Often power outages happen at the same time as a big storm.
• Have redundant pumps.  If you are in an area that gets heavy groundwater flow, a second pump provides you with extra capacity in the event of a very large storm, and provides a back-up.
• For bigger houses, and locations with high groundwater, your system may need multiple sump pit locations.
• Have your sump pit tied into your alarm system, or have some notification system so you know when the pump has failed.  Typically it is going to fail in heavy use (a big storm).
• If you don’t have a French drain system installed, have a plan.  Keep a pump and discharge hose onsite and ready for emergency use.   Pumping out works best if there is a low spot that the pump can be set in and water pushed to it.

Emergency Gas Powered Pump

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/Models.aspx?page=models&section=P2WP

Electric Pumps

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_4869_4869

http://www.pumps-in-stock.com/electric_submersible_trash_pump_cx400.html

Basement Walls – Regardless of the type of foundation, you want to keep the basement dry year round.

• If your basement space is not conditioned, have a dehumidification system.  The best way to set this up is to have the dehumidifier drain directly into the sump pit, or laundry drain.  This prevents having to manually empty the dehumidifier.
• If you have field stone foundation walls, make sure to keep the properly pointed.  Over time moisture in the air degrades the mortar that holds the stones in place.  As the mortar degrades it crumbles and falls out, leaving gaps and holes for water to get through.  This can also lead to structural problems so should be addressed right away.
• Sealing interior walls.  Sealing the interior of a foundation wall is not an effective method of preventing groundwater from entering.  The hydrostatic pressure will typically cause this type of approach to fail.

Articles on Keeping Basements Dry:

http://www.handymanusa.com/articles/drybasement.html

http://htoyh.com/content/keep_your_basement_dry.pdf

http://ezinearticles.com/?Five-Ideas-To-Keep-Your-Basement-Dry&id=586974

http://www.handymanfixhomerepair.com/6-ways-to-keep-your-basement-dry/

When beginning a design-build project or renovation process based on an existing set of plans, builders will work with their client to create an estimated line-item budget for the project.  Each category of the process (demolition, foundation, framing, roofing, flooring, cabinetry, etc) should be broken down into corresponding dollar amounts that tie to a clear and concise statement of the scope of work to be performed for the stated price.

 For owner selected items such as tile, flooring, cabinets, and appliances, an estimated allowance permits a client to understand the entire cost of the project.   However, it can also lead to problems.  Many honest, quality builders may lose jobs to other builders because they determine a realistic allowance that truly captures the cost of the entire project.  On paper, it appears that the price is higher than the competition.   On the other hand, many builders will set low allowances that are unrealistic or insufficient to completing a high quality project. Be cautious of a budget that seems too good to be true.  

 The best approach is to do some shopping for items to be selected ahead of evaluating your bids.  Communicate with your builder the types of materials and appliances you are planning on using.  The best approach is to establish these budgets ahead of time, and give all builders bidding your project the same allowances to use so you have more of an “apples to apples” comparison when evaluating pricing.

 Selections for the specifics of a renovation or addition are not always determined prior to the onset of the building process, hence allowances are set. A bid can be thousands, even tens of thousands, of dollars off if the builder and client do not communicate on the true costs of the expected quality and choices of the project.  A legitimate bid will prevent someone in the middle of construction left with insufficient allowances to complete a project.

An honest, quality builder will assess what a client values and will then create a project proposal that meets those demands. This includes setting allowances that permit the client to select items that are of the quality they desire for their home. Once these allowances have been established, the client should shop around at multiple vendors to determine whether the allowances are truly sufficient for the desired quality level. Assuring a sufficient budget will prevent frustration and misunderstanding during the construction process.

Below are some common areas of dispute in a renovation or new construction project.   This list also serves as a good list of potential questions to see how well a builder performed when checking references.

1. Client thinks the builder did not complete the punch-out, walk-through list

At the end of a project, the builder and client compile a walk-through list. During the walk-through the client and builder assess whether the project is completed as expected.  The walk-through should be thorough, and completed on a single day, preferably before the client moves into the new space.  It is important that the client has this list in writing and is signed, as to prevent a never ending list and create a consensus between the builder and client about expectations.

2. Client is under the impression that additional orders, such as more windows, will not be an extra cost.

Change orders must be put in writing and clearly communicated.  A clear and concise scope of work as part of the proposal process avoids this kind of ambiguity and makes for clear determination of both additions to, and deductions from the contract.

3. Homeowner is dissatisfied with the builder. Builder finds the client to have unrealistic expectations.

Communicating expectations before signing a contract will prevent misunderstandings and frustration. This may take more effort and time but it will result in a smoother building process and positive relationship between the builder and client.   If possible, visit projects the builder has completed.  Assess the quality of the millwork, tile work, paint finishes, etc..

4. The homeowner thinks the builder didn’t communicate changes in a timely and clear manner. The builder believes the client lacks the funds to make changes.

Again, all change orders should be agreed upon in writing. To prevent financial surprises at the end, sometimes it is recommended to pay for changes as they occur.

5. The client thinks the builder is not taking his concerns seriously.

Schedule meetings regularly with the builder to update changes,  concerns,  and scheduling. Such meetings will keep you and your builder on the same page and prevent slowing down the building process.

6. The client says he spoke with the subcontractor who told the client he could do something for the client without the builder’s approval.

All changes must be relayed to the builder or the project manager in charge of the project. This will prevent messy “he said/she said” situations.  The builder is responsible for managing all subcontractors.

7. The client second guesses the builder and his decisions.

Look at a portfolio of the builder’s past projects and communicate with the builder’s references to develop a high level of trust.  Spend time speaking with references before making the decision on who your contractor will be.  Having confidence that your builder is making recommendations and decisions that are in your best long term interest will greatly facilitate the building process.

Depending on lifestyle, the kitchen is often the most important room in a house.  Obviously it is used for cooking, but is often also used for eating,  and often becomes the central place for gathering people together when entertaining.  When you are designing a renovation or a new home, a well-designed and functional kitchen will not only enhance your enjoyment of the space but it will also guarantee greater resale value in the future. 

 For the gourmet cook, a spacious and well-appointed kitchen is a must.  For those less passionate about cooking, a simpler design and layout for a kitchen may be sufficient. Either way, there are several suggestions that are useful to keep in mind when making decisions regarding your new kitchen. When choosing kitchen cabinets, focus on quality. Well-made cabinets are a long-term investment that will provide functionality and satisfaction for years. Additionally, select hard surface, durable and high quality countertops.  With regards to appliances, purchasing absolute top of the line is not necessary, but good quality appliances help sell homes.  With such a significant investment, plan on spending the time to view the kitchen design as a whole.  Evaluate your material selections together to make sure you are happy with the overall effect. 

 Other popular features to consider for your new kitchen include: warming drawers, double ovens, built in microwaves or microwave drawers, trash pull-outs, espresso and coffee bars, hidden pantries and slide out drawers and racks, corner Lazy-Susan cabinets, wine fridges, vegetable sinks in the island, instant hot water dispensers at the sink, water supplies at the range, and purified water systems.

 There are many factors to consider when planning your new kitchen.   Fontenot Contracting is happy to help you create a functional and well-designed kitchen that meets both your needs and your budget.

Aside from the environmental and health benefits associated with greening a home, savings in utility bills are a major incentive to invest in sustainable building. To help determine which green expenditures will be most economically beneficial for your home, there are several numbers that it is useful to look at. These figures include: the payback time in years, the added cost, the annual savings, the 10 year savings, and the return on investment (ROI).  We found an article that captures this information for different green purchases. The article divides green building into several categories: green tune-ups, green remodels, and green advanced systems. We summarize some of the findings below, as well as provide a link to the full article at the end.

Example of a “Green Tune Up:”  Compact Fluorescent Lighting

With 7% of a home’s energy costs being attributed to lighting, higher efficiency compact fluorescent lighting (CFL) bulbs are one recommended “green tune-up.” These use 66% less energy and last ten times as long.

Payback time: .8 yrs       Added Cost:$60        Annual Savings:$80     10 yr Savings:$800       ROI:133.3%

Example of a “Green Remodel:”  Windows

Energy Star rated windows provide one of the highest returns on investment, at 42.9%. Expect $300 in annual savings. Added incentive- tax rebates.

Payback time:2.3 yrs      Added Cost:$700      Annual Savings:$300       10 yr Savings:$3000        ROI: 42.9%

Example of a “Green Advanced System:” Geothermal

Geo-Thermal systems operate at a fraction of the cost of standard HVAC systems while not using any fossil fuels. These systems are a great long term investment as they require little maintenance and last for decades.

Payback time:10 yrs         Added Cost:$30000        Annual Savings:$3000   10 yr Savings:$60000            ROI: 10%

To learn more about the costs and benefits of greening your home, read the full Green ROI article which includes information on over thirty green expenditures, ranging from programmable thermostats to smart roofs.  

http://www.greenandsave.com/master_roi_table.html

How does one define “green”? Many green programs exist which offer flexible classifications- different choices for different levels of green- but these often result in confusion. One program that has achieved credibility and recognition is Energy Star, whose ratings guarantee energy efficiency. It defines energy efficiency through rigorous specifications and third party verification. It is based on performance criteria, which provides consumer confidence. We recently attended an Energy Star program to learn about the methods and benefits behind attaining an Energy Star rating.

Benefits behind Energy Star rating:

Homeowners get thermal envelopes, a more complete HVAC system, water management and quality components in their home. Energy Star rated homeowners receive special rebates.

Understanding the method of Energy Star:

Less risk+ greater consumer satisfaction+ greater differentiation+ greater environmental protection+ greater national security= Value of a better home, lower costs and badge of honor.

Energy Star seeks to control:

Air Flow: Driving forces, fans

Thermal Flow: conduction, convection, radiation

Moisture Flow: Vapor, Bulk

Minimize Load

Two pathways to Energy Star qualifications:

1.      Prescriptive Path- Energy Star reference design

-Energy Star rated HVAC equipment, envelope and windows, H20 Heater, thermostat (gone in 2010), lighting and appliances

2.    Performance path- Hers software evaluation for rated home= energy star hers index target score (size adjusted for specifics). The performance path is the same bundle as the prescriptive path but more specific to home size, climate zone location, foundation type, etc

Hers Index score of 65- average for Energy Star qualified homes

(The HERS Index is a scoring system established by the Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET) in which a home built to the specifications of the HERS Reference Home (based on the 2006 International Energy Conservation Code) scores a HERS Index of 100, while a net zero energy home scores a HERS Index of 0)

Learn about the latest offers and rebates on Energy Star products offered in your area:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=rebate.rebate_locator

Learn more about tax credits for Energy Star ratings:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index

Choices are plentiful with regards to making energy efficient decisions for your home. Fontenot Contracting Company’s mission is to help its clients create the most suitable and efficient projects for their home building endeavors. We believe that the Energy Star program is an effective pathway to achieving this goal. Please contact us for more information.

Besides enhancing the comfort and look of your home, it is also valuable to assess which remodeling projects offer the best rate of return on your investment. We report the results for Boston in Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost Vs. Value report.

High End Projects

Replacing current siding with fiber-cement has lost an astonishing 90.6% ROI in New England. This is higher than the national 83.6% national average. If you prefer foam-backed vinyl product, you can still count on recouping 80% of your cost.

Window replacement is a great short and long term investment because installing more efficient vinyl or wood windows will lower your utility bills and attract home buyers in the future while providing a 78.8% (vinyl) or 70.2% (wood) return on your investment.

Though full kitchen remodels are often the most costly (averaging over $100,000) and time consuming, they are often the most appealing and profitable projects. Expect a 62.8% return on your investment, regardless of the size of your financial layout.

Bathroom remodels are another useful and cost-effective project as you can expect to recoup about 62% of your investment in New England.

 Composite decking is a sturdy combination of wood fibers and plastic that weathers without decaying, maintains its shape, does not shrink or expand and will last for a lifetime. A 59.8% rate of return is to be expected on composite deck additions.

Mid-Range Investments

 Siding replacement using vinyl materials will net you an 86% return on your investment.

While composite deck additions are becoming more popular, wood decks still provide a great return on investment, at 84.6%.

Adding an attic bedroom in New England is an excellent way to utilize space and receive an 83.6% return.

A minor kitchen remodel- which includes replacing appliances for more energy-efficient models, replacing outdated countertops and floors, repainting trim, adding wall covering, and replacing cabinet fronts- expect over 80% of your costs to be recouped at point of sale.

Not only will you add function and aesthetic appeal to the space, but remodeling and finishing a basement can result in a 64% return.

Full Data for Boston, MA specific Remodeling Cost vs. Value: http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2008/costvsvalue/division/new-england/city/boston–ma.aspx

Though they perform the basic function of supplying light and ventilation, windows are comprised of many intricate and complicated parts which significantly affect their performance. Windows can be accounted for problems of heat loss, discomfort and condensation issues. It was found that the energy utilized to compensate for unwanted heat losses and gains through windows in buildings cost the U.S. 20 billion dollars in 1990. Since then, significant technological advancements have been developed for windows. High-performance windows have special transparent coatings, double or triple glazing, insulated gas between panes and improved frames. These improvements all reduce heat transfer, hence diminishing energy loss through windows. Besides brands and styles, many choices abound when selecting the specific features of a window. These include different tints and glazing options which come in a range of performance measurements. The choices and information may be overwhelming, and this entry seeks to clarify the factors affecting window performance.

The photo below captures the various parts of a window which are accountable for performance.  Proper specification of window systems will enhance the comfort and energy efficiency of your home.

(Courtesy of Energy Saver News)http://www.wbdg.org/resources/windows.php

The following is a list of attributes that determines the efficiency of window parts:

• U-factor measures the rate of non-solar heat transfer from one side of the window to the other. Heat transfer entails both heat loss out of a room during cold weather and non-solar heat gain during hot weather months. A lower U-factor translates to better window performance. A .35 or lower U-factor is Energy Star rated and qualifies for rebates. U-factors typically range from a high of 1.3 (a standard aluminum frame singled glazed window) to a low of 0.2 (a multi-paned, high performance window with low-emissivity coatings and insulted frames). The 1.3  U-value window will lose 6.5 times as much heat under the same conditions as the one with a 0.2 U-factor.
• Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures the capability of a window to block heat from the sun. The lower the SHGC, the better the product is at preventing unwanted heat gain.

Visual Light Transmission (VT) measures how much light comes through a product. The higher the VT, the more light that comes through.

• R-value measures the resistance of a glazing material or fenestration assembly to heat flow. A window has a higher resistance to heat flow and a greater insulating value with a high R-value.
• Tints and coatings can alter the properties of a glass. Glass tints are usually produced by adding colorants to the glass. Some tints help reduce solar gains. Coatings, which typically come in the form of metal oxides, with the labels “low-emissivity” or “low-e” help reduce the U-factor. Tints and coatings can add aesthetic appeal, and it has been argued that when windows are specified for U-factor, SHGC, and VT, tint and coating specification is unnecessary for performance.

Recommendations when considering windows and glazings:

• Select low U-factors (less than 0.40) for residential functions.
• When specifying window performance, be sure to look at “whole product performance values” for U-factor and SHGC. If only glass is considered, the actual u-value can be 10 to 40 percent higher than that of the whole window.
• Choose windows with low SHGC values (<0.40) if you have a significant air conditioning load.
• A high VT (>70%) is recommended, particularly for daylighting purposes.

Replacing old windows is a very effective way to improve the energy efficiency of your home. Additionally, windows with low-e and spectrally selective coatings can filter harmful UV rays and prevent damage to home furnishings. There are many figures to look at when selecting new windows, and when sufficiently specified, window systems are a good long term investment for your home. To learn more about different window brands, options and their features, please look at the Windows Information document under the Services tab of our website. Should new windows be of interest to you, Fontenot Contracting is happy to provide its services as well as answer any questions for you.

Get Your Home Ready For Winter

-10 Tips for winter home protection

It is time to get your home ready for the ensuing cold-weather months. Home winterization is frequently overlooked, but it is very important to the upkeep of your house. Taking the right steps will save you money in long run by preventing expensive repairs and replacements as well as money this season by reducing your utility bills. Below we have listed some winter home protection tips.

1. Investigate doors and windows for leaks and drafts.  Add weather-stripping or caulk any holes that allow heat to escape. Doors should be sealed properly. Windows that are leaking badly should be replaced with newer, more efficient ones. With current rebates for energy efficient windows and the potential heating bill savings, window replacements are a worthwhile investment.
2. Make sure that all ducts, wire or pipes that go through walls, ceilings or floors are sealed with caulking or weather-stripping. Ensure that these are all cleaned and operating properly as well. Such steps will prevent energy waste.
3. Remember to keep the damper of your fireplace closed when there is no fire burning. Otherwise you will lose a significant amount of heat through the chimney, which essentially acts as an open window.
4. Clean the gutters. Remove all leaves and other debris by hand, scraper or spatula and give the gutters a rinse with a hose. This way winter’s rain and melted snow will be able to drain. According to the Insurance Information Institute, clogged drains can create ice dams, where water backs up, freezes and causes leakage into the house.
5. Insulate your attic. In older homes, this can be the most cost-effective way to decrease home heating costs. Weather-strip and insulate your attic door as well to prevent heat from escaping the top of your home.
6. Change the switch on your ceiling fan. This is an easy fix, by rotating the direction of any ceiling fans, rising hot air will blow through it upwardly and slowly and then circulate back down into the room.
7. Replace your HVAC air filter. Once you start using the system more frequently in the winter, it is good to make sure it is clean to prevent a dirty air filter from ruining the efficiency of the unit.
8. If your HVAC is getting old, consider replacing it with a more efficient model. There have been enormous technological advancements in heating and cooling systems that are beneficial to the environment and will lower your utility bills. Current rebates and tax credits also make it a great time to consider the investment.
9. Another easy way to lower heating costs is to simply remember to open any sun-facing curtains or blinds before you leave the house.
10. Avoid applying rock salt or calcium chloride to your roof to melt ice and snow. Both can damage shingles, and potentially void the shingle manufacturer’s warranty.

These steps can help protect your home from a tough New England winter and help reduce energy costs. Fontenot Contracting is happy to answer any further questions you have as well as help you with any home projects.